Old Silk Route Circuit • East Himalayas

Pakyong District & The Historic Silk Route

Traverse the 32 hairpin switchbacks of Zuluk, the wind-swept heights of 12,700 ft Gnathang Valley, sacred Kupup Lake, and India's greenfield mountain aviation gateway.

Elevation Range
4,646 ft – 14,140 ft
Pakyong town to Jelep La
Key Highway
NH 717A / Silk Route
Rongli • Zuluk • Kupup
Permit Checkpoint
Rongli SDPO Office
Inner Line Permit (PAP) mandatory
Peak Travel Season
Oct – Dec • Apr – Jun
Clear Kanchenjunga & Rhododendrons
Trans-Himalayan Trade Heritage

Where Mule Caravans Crossed Into Tibet

Pakyong district was historically the beating artery of the Trans-Himalayan trade network connecting Kalimpong and Bengal through the high passes of Jelep La and Nathu La into the Chumbi Valley of Tibet.

The Legacy of the Jelep La Trade Artery

Long before modern border demarcations, horse and mule caravans loaded with Tibetan wool, musk, brick tea, and Sikkimese cardamom negotiated these dramatic ridgelines. The trade route wound through Rongli, climbed through the dense rhododendron and oak slopes of Padamchen and Zuluk, and traversed the high, windswept tundra of Gnathang Valley.

In 1888, the plateau was the scene of the historic Battle of Gnathang between British forces and Tibetan defenders. Today, stone ramparts, British military cemeteries, and ancient rest-houses still stand along the ridge as silent sentinels of this legendary Trans-Himalayan corridor.

Zuluk 32 hairpin loops on the Old Silk Route in Pakyong District Sikkim
The 32 Hairpin Switchbacks of Zuluk Elevation: 9,400 ft
Key High-Altitude Destinations

Essential Sights Along the Pakyong Circuit

From mountain flight hubs to pristine glacial waters and sacred military shrines, explore the highlights of Pakyong District.

Hairpin Engineering

Zuluk & Thambi View Point

Elevation: 9,400 ft – 11,200 ft

Zuluk is an alpine mountain village clinging to the slopes of the Eastern Himalayas. Climbing above Zuluk, the road navigates 32 continuous hairpin switchbacks engineered across three vertical tiers. At Thambi View Point (11,200 ft), witness an expansive sunrise panorama of Mount Kangchenjunga (8,586 m) and the eastern Himalayan snow ridges illuminating against dawn skies.

Alpine Tundra

Gnathang Valley (Ladakh of the East)

Elevation: 12,700 ft

A high-altitude glacial valley characterized by vast, treeless meadows, biting winds, and traditional stone shepherd homes. In winter, Gnathang transforms into a blanket of powder snow; in spring, wild primulas and dwarf rhododendrons carpet the valley basin.

Sacred Glacial Water

Kupup Lake (Elephant Lake / Bitan Cho)

Elevation: 13,066 ft

Revered locally as Bitan Cho, Kupup Lake is shaped remarkably like a resting elephant with a distinctive trunk and tail formation. Surrounded by barren moraines and prayer flags, it lies adjacent to the world's highest yak golf course maintained at 13,025 ft.

Military Shrines

Old Baba Mandir (Tukla Valley)

Elevation: 13,123 ft

The original bunker shrine of Major 'Baba' Harbhajan Singh located near the historic Tukla battle site. Maintained with deep devotion by the Indian Army, soldiers post personal belongings and water bottles here, believing the legendary Baba protects troops stationed along the frigid international frontier.

Freshwater Haven

Aritar Lampokhari Lake

Elevation: 4,600 ft

A boot-shaped, emerald freshwater lake enveloped in dense pine and magnolia forests. Aritar features peaceful paddle boating, paved nature walkways, the 1895 British Dak Bungalow, and the panoramic Mankhim viewpoint offering clear vistas of Mount Kanchenjunga.

Aviation Marvel

Pakyong Greenfield Airport

Elevation: 4,646 ft

One of India's most dramatic engineering achievements, built on an artificially leveled mountain plateau with a 263-ft high reinforced earth retaining wall. The airport provides direct flights to Kolkata and Delhi when weather permits, cutting travel time dramatically.

Calm turquoise waters of Kupup Elephant Lake at 13,066 feet in Pakyong District Sikkim with prayer flags and rugged moraines
Kupup Lake (Bitan Cho) • Elephant Lake Elevation: 13,066 ft (3,982 m)
Glacial High Plateau

Kupup Lake & the Yak Golf Frontier

Lying near the junction of the mountain military roads to Nathu La and Jelep La, Kupup Lake (locally venerated as Bitan Cho) is one of Sikkim's most revered high-altitude bodies of water. At an elevation of 13,066 feet, the lake is fed by high snowfields and takes the striking outline of a crouching elephant, with its natural contour showing an unmistakable trunk and rounded body.

Beside the lake stands the legendary Yak Golf Course, established in 1972 and situated at an altitude of 13,025 feet, officially certified by the Guinness Book of World Records as the highest golf course in the world. The course is maintained by the Indian Army and features alpine turf framed by snow peaks.

During the winter months from December to March, the lake surface freezes into solid crystal ice, while spring brings vibrant alpine gentians and primulas to the surrounding moraines.

Aviation Engineering Landmark

Pakyong Greenfield Airport: Engineering at 4,600 Feet

Perched high on an artificially carved mountain ridge above Pakyong town at 1,400 metres (4,593 ft), Pakyong Greenfield Airport (PYG) represents one of India's most extraordinary feats of civil and geotechnical engineering. Spread over 201 acres, the mountain airstrip was constructed using massive reinforced-earth retaining walls standing up to 80 metres (263 ft) tall — among the highest geotechnical soil-reinforcement structures on the planet.

Inaugurated in September 2018, the airport connects Sikkim directly with major Indian metropolises including Kolkata and New Delhi via commercial turboprop aircraft (ATR-72 and Q400). The approach into Pakyong offers passengers sensational aerial panoramas of deep terraced valleys and snow-capped Himalayan peaks. Because mountain weather can cause low cloud ceilings and morning fog, flights operate under strict visual flight rules (VFR), with Bagdogra Airport (120 km south) acting as the primary all-weather diversionary hub.

En Route Sanctuaries & Valleys

Saramsa Botanical Garden & Kyongnosla Ridge

Situated just 14 km downhill from Pakyong town en route towards Ranipool, the historic Saramsa Garden (originally established in 1922 as the Ipecac Garden by the Sikkim Forest Department) serves as an expansive botanical sanctuary. It preserves over 500 varieties of exotic Himalayan orchids, medicinal ferns, and tropical flora set alongside stone-paved riverside walkways.

Further along the district's higher subalpine borders near Tsomgo Lake lies the Kyongnosla Alpine Sanctuary, spanning 31 sq km. This pristine corridor protects endangered Red Pandas, Himalayan Musk Deer, and Blood Pheasants foraging amidst rare rhododendrons and alpine primulas. Travel along this route links the mild agrarian warmth of Pakyong town directly with the frigid frontier ridges of the Old Silk Route.

Border Protocol & Checkpoints

Protected Area Permit (PAP) Guidelines for Rongli

Because the Old Silk Route runs within close proximity to the international border with China (Tibet Autonomous Region), strict permit regulations apply for all travelers.

1. Where to Obtain

Permits are issued at the Sub-Divisional Police Office (SDPO) in Rongli or through registered Sikkim Tourism travel operators in Gangtok. Permits are stamped on the morning of entry at Rongli.

2. Mandatory Documents

Indian citizens must carry original government photo ID (Passport, Voter ID, or Driving License; Aadhaar alone may not be accepted at army checkpoints) and 3 passport-size photographs per person.

3. Vehicle & Timing Rules

Only Sikkim or West Bengal commercial tourist vehicles with experienced mountain drivers are permitted beyond Rongli. The checkpoint closes for uphill entry in late afternoon (around 2:00 PM).

Classic Route Plan

The Complete 3-Day Silk Route Expedition

An optimal mountain circuit designed for proper high-altitude acclimatization and uncrowded sunrise viewing.

01Day

Siliguri/NJP – Rongli – Que Khola Falls – Zuluk / Padamchen

Drive along the Teesta River highway via Rangpo and Rorathang to Rongli. Process Protected Area Permits at the SDPO office. Halt at Que Khola Falls and settle in a traditional homestay in Padamchen (7,500 ft) or Zuluk (9,400 ft) for overnight acclimatization.

02Day

Zuluk Hairpin Sunrise – Thambi – Gnathang – Kupup – Aritar

Depart before dawn (around 4:30 AM) to catch the Kanchenjunga sunrise from Thambi View Point (11,200 ft). Traverse the 32 loops to Lungthung, cross the high plateau of Gnathang Valley (12,700 ft), visit Old Baba Mandir, and view Elephant Lake (Kupup, 13,066 ft) before descending to the emerald pinewoods of Aritar.

03Day

Aritar Lampokhari Lake – British Dak Bungalow – Pakyong – Gangtok / NJP

Morning stroll around Aritar Lampokhari Lake and climb up to Mankhim temple for panoramic valley views. Explore the 1895 British Dak Bungalow, and continue via Pakyong (viewing the Greenfield Airport) onward to Gangtok or down to Siliguri.

Alpine Living & Flavors

Authentic Sikkimese Cuisine in Homestays

Travel along the Silk Route is deeply intertwined with warm Lepcha and Bhutia homestay hospitality. Unlike commercial hotel hubs, local families prepare freshly harvested, organic mountain meals:

  • Kinema Curry: Fermented soybean stew rich in plant protein, cooked with local mountain herbs and turmeric.
  • Gundruk-Jhol: Sun-dried and fermented mustard or radish leaves simmered into a tangy, digestive soup.
  • Phagshapa: Sliced pork stewed with dried mountain radishes and fiery local red chillies.
  • Fresh Momos & Thukpa: Steamed dumplings filled with local greens or meats, served alongside spicy Dalle Khursani chutney.
  • Tongba: Fermented millet brew served in a tall wooden bamboo canister (*amkhoo*), topped with steaming water and sipped through a bamboo straw.
Practical Travel Essentials

Packing & Mountain Health Guide

High altitude along the Tukla and Kupup pass (above 13,000 ft) demands careful preparation:

1. Thermal Layering: Temperatures regularly plunge below freezing at Gnathang and Thambi even in autumn and spring. Carry windproof jackets, thermal inners, gloves, and woolen beanies.

2. Altitude Acclimatization: Avoid rushing directly from Siliguri (400 ft) to Gnathang (12,700 ft) in a single day. Overnight stay at Padamchen or Zuluk (7,500 – 9,400 ft) ensures your body adapts smoothly without AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness).

3. Cash Reserves: ATM facilities are limited beyond Rongli; carry sufficient Indian rupee cash for homestays, driver permits, and local snacks.

Mountain Road & Air Logistics

How to Reach Pakyong District & The Silk Route Gateway

Pakyong District serves as the strategic southeastern portal into Sikkim, directly linking North Bengal's transit hubs with both Gangtok and the high alpine passes of the Old Silk Route:

Flight Gateway

Pakyong Airport (PYG) • 2 km from town

Direct commercial turboprop flights from Kolkata (CCU) and New Delhi (DEL). Pre-paid taxi counters at the terminal offer point-to-point transfers to Gangtok (30 km), Ranipool, or Rongli.

All-Weather Airhead

Bagdogra Airport (IXB) • 118 km

Approx. 4.5 hours by road via Sevoke, Teesta, and Rangpo checkpost along NH-10. Serves as the primary heavy-traffic aviation hub when mountain cloud cover closes Pakyong.

Major Railway Terminal

New Jalpaiguri (NJP) • 110 km

Approx. 4 hours. Shared Tata Sumos and private mountain cabs operate continuously from Siliguri / NJP to Rangpo and Pakyong town.

From State Capital

Gangtok • 30–35 km

Approx. 1.2 to 1.5 hours via Ranipool and Assam Lingzey. Frequent local shared taxis ply between Gangtok (Deorali Stand) and Pakyong bazaar throughout the day.

Accessing the Silk Route Checkpoint at Rongli

To enter the high-altitude Silk Route circuit (Zuluk, Padamchen, Lungthung, Gnathang Valley, and Kupup Lake), travelers must divert east from Rangpo/Pakyong to Rongli Sub-Division (45 km, ~2 hrs via Rorathang). Rongli is the mandatory checkpoint where SDPO Protected Area Permits (PAP) are stamped and verified. High-clearance vehicles (Tata Sumo, Mahindra Bolero, Scorpio, or Innova) are strongly advised due to steep hairpins and unpaved moraine stretches along the high border passes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Pakyong & Silk Route Travel Essentials

What permits are required for the Old Silk Route in Pakyong District?
Indian nationals require a Protected Area Permit (PAP) / Inner Line Permit issued by the Sub-Divisional Police Office (SDPO) at Rongli or Sikkim Tourism Office in Gangtok. You need 2 passport photos and government photo ID (Voter ID or Passport, not Aadhaar alone for border checkpoints). Foreign nationals are currently restricted beyond Rongli towards Zuluk/Gnathang due to close proximity to the international border.
What is the best time to visit Zuluk and the Silk Route in Pakyong?
The prime seasons are October to December for crystal-clear Kanchenjunga sunrise views from Thambi Viewpoint and Lungthung, and April to June for blooming alpine rhododendrons and wildflowers across Gnathang Valley. January to March experiences heavy snowfall which often blocks Tukla and Kupup passes.
Is Pakyong Airport operational and connected to major cities?
Pakyong Greenfield Airport (PYG) operates commercial flights connecting to Kolkata and Delhi, subject to clear weather and cloud ceiling. In case of inclement mountain weather, Bagdogra Airport (IXB) in West Bengal (120 km / 4.5 hours away) serves as the primary all-weather airport.
How to plan an itinerary for the Pakyong Silk Route circuit?
A classic 3-day Silk Route circuit runs: Day 1: Rongli (permit verification) to Lingtam, Que Khola Falls, and stay in Zuluk or Padamchen (acclimatization at 9,400 ft). Day 2: Early morning sunrise at Thambi View Point (11,200 ft), Lungthung (12,000 ft), Gnathang Valley, Old Baba Mandir, and Kupup Lake (13,066 ft), descending to Aritar. Day 3: Aritar Lampokhari Lake and British Dak Bungalow, returning via Pakyong to Gangtok or Siliguri.
Authoritative Citations & Reference Sources
  • Sikkim Tourism & Civil Aviation Department, Government of Sikkim — Official Guidelines on Protected Area Permits (PAP) for the East & North Circuits.
  • Survey of India — Geodetic & Topographic Maps of the Indo-Tibet Border passes (Jelep La, Nathu La & Kupup Sector).
  • Airports Authority of India (AAI) — Technical Specifications & Embankment Data of Pakyong Greenfield Airport (PYG).
  • Gazetteer of Sikkim (H.H. Risley, 1894) — Historical documentation of the British expedition & 1888 Battle of Gnathang.
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