Chittagong.

Porto Grande: The Seafaring Chronicle of Chattogram

Chattogram’s geography has dictated regional history since antiquity. Mentioned by the Greco-Roman geographer Ptolemy in the 1st century CE as the trading port of *Pentapolis*, the natural deep-water estuary of the Karnaphuli River served as the primary gateway connecting ancient Bengal with the maritime Silk Route. By the 9th century, Arab merchants had established permanent commercial enclaves here, introducing Islam and leaving linguistic traces in the distinct local Chittagonian dialect (*Chatgaya*).

In the 16th century, Portuguese explorers and navigators arrived, designating the harbor as *Porto Grande de Bengala* (the Grand Port of Bengal), in contrast to Porto Pequeno (Satgaon on the Hooghly). For over a century, Portuguese mercenaries and Arakanese (Magh) sea-raiders controlled the delta coastline, conducting daring raids along the river channels until 1666, when the Mughal Viceroy of Bengal, Shaista Khan, dispatched a massive imperial naval flotilla that decisively captured the port, renaming it Islamabad. During the British colonial era, the Assam-Bengal Railway was constructed with its grand terminus in Chittagong, transforming the port into the premier export conduit for Assam tea and Bengal jute.

The Bostami Softshell Turtle (Nilssonia nigricans)

Located six kilometers northwest of central Chittagong on a tranquil forested hillock in Nasirabad, the Shrine of Hazrat Bayazid Bostami is one of the most revered spiritual destinations in Bangladesh. Dedicated to the celebrated 9th-century Persian Sufi mystic Abu Yazid al-Bistami (who is believed by local tradition to have visited Bengal during his spiritual travels), the shrine complex centers around a tranquil, stepped masonry pond (*dighi*).

This pond is home to a world-famous biological wonder: a captive population of several hundred Black Softshell Turtles (*Nilssonia nigricans*, locally known as *Bostami Kasheem*). For decades, these gentle prehistoric reptiles—distinguished by their enormous cartilaginous shells, tube-like snouts, and docile nature—were classified by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) as 'Extinct in the Wild', existing exclusively within the sacred pond of this Chittagong shrine. Local folklore holds that these turtles were originally evil spirits (*jinns*) who incurred the wrath of the Sufi saint and were transformed into chelonian custodians of the waters. Devotees and pilgrims flock to the water's edge to feed the turtles offerings of puffed rice (*muri*), boiled meat, and bread, watching as giant turtles over a century old surface from the green depths. Today, dedicated conservation partnerships between the shrine committee and wildlife organizations are successfully breeding these sacred reptiles and reintroducing hatchlings into protected river basins across northeastern Bangladesh.

The Coastal Energy of Patenga

Located fourteen kilometers south of the city center, Patenga Beach is Chittagong’s beloved maritime playground. Situated directly at the mouth of the Karnaphuli River as it empties into the Bay of Bengal, Patenga presents a kinetic, industrial-coastal spectacle found nowhere else in South Asia. Massive ocean-going freighters, oil tankers, and container ships ride at anchor on the horizon, waiting for tide windows to enter the river port, while naval frigates from the adjacent Bangladesh Naval Academy cruise past the shoreline.

The beach promenade is fortified with massive concrete tetrapods designed to withstand monsoonal tidal surges. At sunset, thousands of local residents gather along the sea wall to catch cool oceanic breezes and feast on iconic street delicacies: spicy, crispy fried river crab dusted with roasted cumin and chili, spicy lentil fritters (*piaju*), and fresh sugarcane juice. Nearby, the newly inaugurated Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman Tunnel—the first underwater road tunnel in South Asia, traversing beneath the Karnaphuli River—connects the city directly to the industrial hub of Anwara.

A Living Archive of Tribal Diversity

Situated in the Agrabad commercial district, the Ethnological Museum of Chittagong is one of only two specialized ethnological institutions in South Asia. Established in 1974, the museum is dedicated to documenting, preserving, and celebrating the customs, lifestyle, and material culture of Bangladesh’s diverse indigenous communities, with particular emphasis on the ethnic nationalities inhabiting the adjoining Chittagong Hill Tracts.

Through meticulously curated galleries, visitors encounter authentic exhibits representing the Chakma, Marma, Tripura, Bawm, Mro, Tanchangya, Khasi, Santal, Garo, and Monipuri peoples. Displays showcase traditional bamboo stilt-house architecture (*tong ghar*), intricate backstrap handlooms used to weave colorful *pinon* and *hadi* garments, agricultural implements used for shifting hillside cultivation (*jhum*), ceremonial brass gongs, tribal hunting bows, and musical instruments like the bamboo mouth organ (*plung*). The museum provides crucial cultural context before travelers embark on journeys into the hill districts of Bandarban, Rangamati, and Khagrachhari.

1. The Tradition of Mezban (Mezbani Gosht)

The undisputed crown jewel of Chittagonian cuisine is Mezban—a centuries-old communal feast tradition organized to celebrate births, weddings, harvest milestones, and memorials. The centerpiece is *Mezbani Gosht*, where massive portions of beef or mutton are slow-cooked over firewood in enormous copper pots (*degs*). The meat is marinated in cold-pressed mustard oil, freshly ground coriander, cumin, ginger, garlic, white sesame seeds, fenugreek, and a secret blend of roasted spices that gives the curry an intense, dark mahogany hue and complex, aromatic heat. It is served atop steaming hills of parboiled white rice, accompanied by *Chonar Dal* (split Bengal gram lentils stewed with beef bones and whole spices) and *Kala Bhuna* (beef chunks braised until nearly black and intensely caramelized). Top places to sample authentic Mezbani cooking in the city include *Mezzan Haile Aaiun* and *GEC Circle Mezbani Kitchen*.

2. Pure Vegetarian (Niramish) Dining in Chittagong

Vegetarian travelers are exceptionally well catered for in Chittagong, which is home to a prosperous and historic Bengali Hindu community centered in the commercial quarters of Teribazar, Firingi Bazar, and Sadarghat.

• Traditional Hindu Hotels: Along Teribazar Road and near the historic Chatteshwari Temple, several heritage Hindu establishments serve daily pure vegetarian (*Niramish*) thalis. Meals feature fragrant rice served with *Shukto* (bitter-sweet vegetable stew), *Cholar Dal* seasoned with whole dried red chilies and coconut slices, *Alu Gobi Bhaji*, and *Begun Bhaja*.
• Chatteshwari Kali Temple Kitchens: Located in the central city, the 18th-century Chatteshwari Temple (regarded as a sacred Shakti Peetha) provides sanctified vegetarian *bhog* and sweets to pilgrims and visitors on auspicious days.
• Artisanal Sweetshops: Chattogram’s sweetshops are legendary. Visit *Dutta Sweets* and *Bikrampur Mistanna Bhandar* for freshly made *Chhanar Jilapi* (cottage cheese spirals soaked in saffron syrup), soft cardamom-infused *Sandesh*, and rich baked *Mishti Doi*.