Surma Kohl Processing & Traditional Cane Weavers बरेली — सुरमा उद्योग और बेंত हस्तशिल्प

The Nath Nagri of
Gold and Kohl

Where ancient Shiva temples anchor the compass and artisans grind fine black mineral kohl in the shadow of the legendary Jhumka.

Nath Nagri
Seven Shiva Shrines
200+ Yrs
Surma Legacy
Kutubkhana
Artisan Hub
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🧭 At a Glance (Quick Facts)

  • Destination: Bareilly (Nath Nagri)
  • State/Region: Uttar Pradesh, India
  • Coordinates: 28.36° N, 78.43° E
  • Highlight: Famed for Dargah-e-Ala Hazrat, the ancient Alakhnath Temple, traditional cottage industries of Surma (kohl) and cane furniture, and the decorative Jhumka Chauraha.

The Hand-Ground Kohl & the Woven Cane

Situated in the fertile Rohilkhand plains of Uttar Pradesh, Bareilly is a city of historic trade. Famed in folklore and Bollywood songs, the town is anchored by seven ancient Shiva temples, earning it the title of 'Nath Nagri'. Beyond its temples, Bareilly maintains a unique heritage of cottage industries, particularly the production of hand-ground Surma (kohl) and the intricate craft of cane furniture weaving.

The visual identity of Bareilly is cane golden-yellow and kohl black. The city is a major spiritual hub, hosting the historic Dargah-e-Ala Hazrat, which draws millions of Islamic scholars and pilgrims annually. In the narrow bazaar lanes of Kutubkhana and station road, families continue to grind fine minerals into traditional eye kohl using mortars and pestles. It is a city where cottage industries thrive in family courtyards.

"In Bareilly, weavers bend golden cane into fine furniture and families grind black minerals into traditional kohl. It is a town where heritage is crafted by hand."
7 Shrines
Nath Shiva Temples
1910 AD
Ala Hazrat Shrine
Surma
Mineral eye kohl
Bans-Bareilly
Bamboo trade hub

The Chronology of the Rohilkhand Hub

From ancient Panchala kingdom roots and Rohilla Pathan rule to the British cantonment period and modern industrial development, Bareilly's history is one of trade and resilience. The timeline below tracks this development.

1537 AD
City Founded by Jagat Singh
Jagat Singh Kat Katiyan establishes the settlement, naming it Bareilly after his sons Bansdeo and Barel Dev, initiating the bamboo trade.
1740s AD
Rohilla Pathan Dynasty Rules
Ali Mohammad Khan establishes the Rohilla state, making Bareilly a major center of cultural and architectural development in northern India.
1910 AD
Ala Hazrat Shrine Established
Following the passing of Imam Ahmed Raza Khan, the Dargah-e-Ala Hazrat is established, growing into a major center for Islamic jurisprudence.
1966 AD
The Jhumka Song Phenomenon
A popular song in the film 'Mera Saaya' links the dangling 'jhumka' earring with the city, sparking decades of cultural associations.
2020 AD
Jhumka Chauraha Consecrated
The local administration installs a massive decorative Jhumka at a major highway crossroads, creating a landmark for travelers.

The Art of the Surma Kohl & the Looming Cane

Explore the unique cottage industries of Bareilly. From the grinding of mineral stones into therapeutic kohl to the shaping of raw cane into furniture, these crafts are passed down through generations. Click through the tabs below.

👁️ Surma Kohl

Surma: The Traditional Kohl Grind

Bareilly's Surma is a traditional kohl prepared by grinding Kohl stones (Koh-i-Toor minerals) and herbs into a fine powder used for eye care.

Artisans grind the mineral paste in stone mortars for several days to achieve a smooth texture, adding pearls and neem extracts.

  • Grinding process takes up to 48 hours of manual labor.
  • Believed to keep the eyes cool and protect from strain.
  • Horticultural extracts are blended for specialized varieties.
🪑 Cane Weaving

Cane Furniture: Bending and Weaving

Raw cane and bamboo sourced from northeastern forests are shaped into chairs, swings, and baskets by local craftsmen.

Artisans heat the cane shafts over gas flames to bend them into frame shapes, wrapping them with fine split cane peel.

  • Frame joints are bound with split cane rather than metal nails.
  • Finished with protective varnish for a golden-yellow shine.
  • Primary workshops are located along Kutubkhana Road.
🧵 Zardozi Work

Zardozi: The Metallic Gold Thread

Bareilly is a major center for Zardozi, a traditional style of metal embroidery using gold and silver threads on fabrics.

Artisans stretch velvet or silk sheets over wooden frames ('karkhanas') to sew detailed floral designs using needles.

  • Draws thousands of artisans across family workshops.
  • Utilizes metallic coils, beads, and gold threads.
  • Exported to bridal fashion centers across India.
👂 Jhumka Legend

The Jhumka: A Song-Inspired Identity

In 1966, the Bollywood song "Jhumka Gira Re" linked the dangling earring with Bareilly's busy market streets.

In 2020, a decorative Jhumka was installed at a major crossroads on National Highway 24 to honor this cultural connection.

  • The Jhumka installation weighs over 200 kilograms.
  • Adorned with gold-finish brass and dangling beads.
  • Serves as a popular photo stop for highway travelers.

The Shrines and the Looming Crosses

Explore the primary landmarks of Bareilly. From the historic Ala Hazrat Dargah to the ancient Nath Shiva temples, these destinations show the city's heritage. Click or hover on the cards below.

Alakhnath Temple

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Alakhnath Temple

The oldest Shiva shrine in the city, serving as the headquarters of the Anand Akhara of Naga sannyasis. It features dynamic courtyards, holy water pools, and shrines to various deities.

⏱ 6 AM - 9 PM | Daily Aarti at sunset

Dargah Ala Hazrat

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Dargah-e-Ala Hazrat

The tomb of Imam Ahmed Raza Khan, a 19th-century Islamic scholar who founded the Barelvi movement. The shrine features detailed dome architecture and hosts the annual Urs festival.

⏱ Open Daily | Modest attire required

Jhumka Chauraha

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Jhumka Chauraha

A massive decorative earring installation on NH 24, celebrating the city's connection to Bollywood folklore. It features a gold-painted frame and decorative brass detailing.

⏱ Open 24 Hours | Best viewed at night

Trivati Nath

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Trivati Nath Temple

One of the seven ancient Shiva temples in the Nath Nagri circuit. Legend says a Shiva Lingam emerged under three banyan trees here, now marked by a marble temple structure.

⏱ 6 AM - 8:30 PM | Shivratri celebrations

Kutubkhana

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Kutubkhana Bazaar

The oldest marketplace in the city center. It is the primary market for buying traditional Surma kohl, zardozi clothing, and hand-woven cane furniture directly from artisans.

⏱ 11 AM - 9 PM | Busy lanes

👁️ The Surma Legacy

Traditional Bareilly Surma is made by grinding mineral stones, such as antimony, in stone mortars for several days. This process is carried out in family workshops in the old quarters, producing a fine powder that is bottled in traditional glass vials. The craft has been practiced for over two centuries, with families passing down the knowledge of mineral blending.

The Culinary Staples & the Seekh Kebabs

Bareilly's food features spiced Mughlai dishes, cooked over coal grills in the bazaar streets, served alongside local sweets.

🍖

Seekh Kebabs

Skewered minced meat blended with coriander, mint, and local spices, grilled over wood charcoal ovens, served with lime juice and green chutney.

Tasted at: Food stalls in old Kutubkhana
🍬

Petha Sweet

Soft, translucent ash gourd candies prepared by boiling vegetable cubes in flavored sugar syrups, popular for gifting.

Purchased at: Sweet houses near the station
🍞

Sheermal

A saffron-flavored traditional flatbread prepared with milk, sugar, and baking yeast, baked in clay tandoor ovens.

Sipped at: Bakeries near the Ala Hazrat Dargah

Plan Your Journey

How to Reach Bareilly

✈️ By Air
Bareilly Airport (BEK) operates direct flights connecting the city to Delhi, Mumbai, and Bangalore. Hire an auto-rickshaw to travel into town.
🚂 By Rail
Bareilly Junction (BE) is a major railway junction on the Northern Railway network, connecting the region to Lucknow, Delhi, Varanasi, and Kolkata.
🚗 By Road
Connected via National Highway 30 (connecting Delhi and Lucknow). Regular state government and private sleeper buses run daily.

🌡️ Best Time to Visit

✓ Best
October to March (Winter)

Cool and dry temperatures (9°C to 23°C). Ideal for walking through the old bazaar lanes, visiting outdoor temples, and highway travel.

◎ Humid
July to September (Monsoon)

Monsoon rains cool down the plains, though high humidity and water logging can slow travel in old quarters.

⚠ Avoid
April to June (Summer)

Temperatures can reach 43°C, accompanied by hot 'Loo' winds. Outdoor exploration in the afternoon is uncomfortable.

The Unhurried 2-Day Route

Bareilly is best experienced at a slow pace. Temple visits, bazaar walks, and sampling local street food require time to settle. This curated route ensures you capture the heritage of the Rohilkhand hub.

Day 1: Shrines & Old Bazaars

09:30 AM: Start your day at the Alakhnath Temple. Spend the morning viewing the shrines and water pools.

01:30 PM: Visit the Kutubkhana Bazaar to shop for traditional Surma kohl and zardozi embroidery.

04:30 PM: Visit the Dargah-e-Ala Hazrat shrine, exploring the architecture and old quarters.

Day 2: Cane Crafts & Bollywood Landmarks

08:30 AM: Walk through the cane-weaving workshops along Kutubkhana Road to watch artisans shape raw cane.

02:00 PM: Travel to the Jhumka Chauraha on NH 24 to view the massive dangling earring installation.

04:30 PM: Visit the Trivati Nath Temple to view the sunset Aarti under the banyan trees.

Frequently Asked

Are visitors allowed to take photos inside the Dargah-e-Ala Hazrat? +
Photography is allowed in the outer courtyard of the Dargah, but taking photos inside the main tomb area is prohibited to maintain the spiritual peace.
Where can I buy authentic Bareilly Surma? +
Authentic hand-ground Surma can be purchased at traditional family shops in the old Kutubkhana Bazaar, which has been the center for the trade for over a century.
Is the Jhumka Chauraha easy to access? +
Yes, the Jhumka installation is located at a major crossroads on National Highway 30 (Pilibhit bypass area). Local auto-rickshaws can take you directly there.
Is Bareilly safe for solo travelers? +
Yes, Bareilly is a safe and welcoming city. Standard travel precautions apply: plan your walks through old bazaars during daylight hours, and use registered auto-rickshaws for night travel.

Continue the UP Route

Explore the Nawabi heritage, historic residency ruins, and Chikankari embroidery of neighboring Lucknow district.

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