The 'Solitary Hermitage': Lama Druptob Karpo and Tantric Lore
Perched serenely amidst a dense forest of whispering Himalayan blue pines approximately three kilometres northeast of Gangtok's bustling city center, Enchey Monastery is one of the oldest, most spiritually venerated Buddhist sanctuaries in Sikkim. In the Bhutia language, 'Enchey' translates literally as 'The Solitary Hermitage'—a name that reflects its historical founding as a secluded mountain retreat situated high above ancient forest trails far from human habitation.
The sacred history of Enchey is intimately linked with the legendary tantric master Lama Druptob Karpo. According to oral folklore, Lama Druptob Karpo was a renowned Mahasiddha (accomplished yogi) who possessed supernatural siddhi powers, including the miraculous ability to fly through the mountain air. In the mid-nineteenth century, the master flew from the heights of Maenam Hill and landed upon this forested Gangtok ridge, constructing a solitary meditation hermitage where he practiced profound esoteric Vajrayana meditations and bound the fierce mountain spirits of Kanchenjunga into oaths of cosmic protection.
Enchey Monastery is celebrated throughout the Eastern Himalaya for its spectacular two-day Cham masked dance festival, held annually on the 18th and 19th days of the twelfth Tibetan lunar month (usually in January). Monks donning terrifying hand-carved masks of protector deities and silk brocade robes perform sacred choreographed dances in the flagstone courtyard to exorcise malevolent spirits before the Tibetan New Year.
The 1909 Royal Reconstruction Under Chogyal Sidkeong Tulku
In 1909, during the enlightened reign of Chogyal Sidkeong Tulku Namgyal, who was himself an incarnate high lama recognized by the 13th Dalai Lama, the modest timber hermitage of Lama Druptob Karpo was substantially expanded and formally reconstructed as a grand monastic complex following the classical architectural blueprint of the Chinese pagoda style combined with Tibetan monastic traditions. The monastery belongs to the Mindroling tradition of the Nyingmapa order, the oldest school of Tibetan Buddhism.
The main two-story Dukhang features an exquisite multi-tiered sloping timber roof adorned with gleaming brass finials (gandjira) and dharma wheel emblems flanked by two recumbent deer. The entrance portico is flanked by massive carved timber columns and antique wall paintings of the Wheel of Life (Bhavachakra) and the Four Guardian Kings, welcoming visitors into an atmosphere steeped in centuries of monastic contemplation.
The Inner Sanctum: Buddha, Padmasambhava and Tantric Deities
Stepping into the butter-lamp-illuminated prayer hall of Enchey, visitors encounter an extraordinary assembly of sacred Buddhist iconography. The main altar houses an imposing gilded statue of Buddha Shakyamuni, flanked by radiant images of Guru Padmasambhava (in his royal form) and the Bodhisattva of Compassion, Chenrezig. An adjacent shrine room is dedicated to the wrathful protector deities (Dharmapalas) of Sikkim, including Mahakala and the mountain warrior deity Yabdu, whose fierce gilded statues are draped in silk katas (blessing scarves).
The interior walls are adorned with masterful vintage murals executed in vibrant mineral and vegetable pigments, illustrating the eighty-four Mahasiddhas of India, the peaceful and wrathful bardo deities, and scenes from the miraculous life of Guru Rinpoche. High above the assembly cushions, the ceiling beams are intricately painted with protective mandalas, while rows of hand-painted thangkas hang from the upper balconies, fluttering gently in the fragrant incense-laden air.
Enchey Monastery is a revered active spiritual sanctuary. Visitors must remove their shoes at the entrance veranda before entering the main prayer hall. Maintain absolute silence during ongoing meditation recitations, do not photograph the inner sanctum altars, and circumambulate the temple in a strict clockwise direction.
The Sacred Cham Masked Dances and Losoong Celebrations
Enchey Monastery serves as the focal point for the traditional Sikkimese harvest festival of Losoong and the pre-New Year purification rituals held in December and January. The two-day annual Cham festival is one of the most vibrant cultural spectacles in Gangtok. The central flagstone courtyard transforms into an open-air theatrical arena, surrounded by tiered seating filled with local devotees and international travelers.
Monks, who undergo days of intensive meditation to embody the deities they represent, emerge from the dukhang in dazzling silk brocade robes and terrifying hand-carved wooden masks depicting Mahakala, skull-faced cemetery guardians (Citipati), and wrathful animal spirits. To the dramatic acoustic roar of long brass dungchen horns, crashing cymbals, and rhythmic hand-drums, the dancers perform hypnotic whirling steps that reenact the triumph of Buddhist dharma over destructive cosmic forces and cleanse the realm of spiritual obstacles for the coming year.
Visiting Logistics, Transportation from M.G. Marg and Travel Tips
Enchey Monastery is located just 3 kilometres from M.G. Marg (the pedestrian heart of Gangtok). It can be reached in about 10 to 15 minutes by local taxi, or via a pleasant, uphill 40-minute walk through pine-shaded residential neighborhoods past the Sikkim TV tower. The monastery is open to visitors daily from 06:00 AM to 06:00 PM, and admission is completely free of charge.
Morning visits (between 06:30 AM and 08:30 AM) are particularly enchanting, offering visitors the opportunity to hear novice monks reciting morning prayers while enjoying stunning views of Mount Kanchenjunga rising above the morning valley mist. Pair your visit to Enchey with stops at the nearby Ganesh Tok viewpoint and the Himalayan Zoological Park, located just two kilometres further up the ridge road. Dress respectfully with covered shoulders and knees.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What does 'Enchey' mean and when was the monastery founded?
Enchey means 'The Solitary Hermitage' in Bhutia. It was originally established in the mid-19th century by the tantric master Lama Druptob Karpo and reconstructed into its present grand pagoda form in 1909 by Chogyal Sidkeong Tulku.
Who was Lama Druptob Karpo associated with Enchey?
Lama Druptob Karpo was a legendary tantric master and yogi believed to possess flying siddhi powers. Legend says he flew from Maenam Hill and established his solitary meditation hermitage on the Enchey ridge.
When is the Cham masked dance festival held at Enchey Monastery?
The sacred Cham masked dance festival takes place annually in January (on the 18th and 19th days of the 12th Tibetan lunar month) during the Sikkimese New Year (Losoong) celebrations.
How far is Enchey Monastery from M.G. Marg in Gangtok?
Enchey Monastery is located approximately 3 km northeast of M.G. Marg, taking about 10 to 15 minutes by local taxi or a pleasant 40-minute uphill walk.
Is photography permitted inside Enchey Monastery?
Photography of the monastery exterior, pine courtyard, and Cham dance performances is allowed. Photography inside the inner prayer hall and altars is strictly prohibited.
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