The Remas: Ancient Austroasiatic Origins of the Bonda Tribe
Nestled in the rugged, densely forested highlands of the Eastern Ghats in Koraput district near the Machkund river valley, the small mountain hamlet of Onukudelli is the stage for one of the most culturally significant weekly gatherings in South Asia. Every Thursday morning, this quiet settlement transforms into a vibrant confluence of indigenous cultures as members of the secluded Bonda (Bondo) tribe descend from their isolated mountain villages in the Khairput hills to trade at the weekly haat.
The Bondas refer to themselves in their native Remo language as the 'Remas' (meaning 'human beings'). Anthropologists classify them as belonging to the Austroasiatic linguistic group, with cultural roots tracing back to early human migrations that populated the subcontinent over 60,000 years ago. Officially classified by the Government of India as a Particularly Vulnerable Tribal Group (PVTG), the Bonda population numbers approximately 12,000 individuals living in roughly 32 secluded hilltop hamlets perched at elevations exceeding 1,000 meters.
Fiercely independent and proud, the Bondas have resisted assimilation into mainstream society for centuries, preserving matrilineal societal structures, hunting and foraging customs, slash-and-burn shifting cultivation (Podu Chas), and Neolithic religious rituals centered upon ancestral earth spirits.
Strict Photography Ethics & Cultural Sensitivity
Photography of Bonda women must be approached with extreme sensitivity and explicit verbal permission. Never point cameras aggressively or take photos without consent. It is customary and respectful to purchase small items of forest produce (such as organic wild turmeric, forest broom grass, or seasonal fruits) from their stalls. Flash photography and drone filming are strictly banned.
The Distinctive Attire: Renga Fabric, Brass Collars & Beaded Regalia
The visual signature of Bonda women is entirely unique in the global ethnographic record. According to sacred tribal lore rooted in regional Ramayana traditions, the Bonda women were cursed by Goddess Sita to have their heads shaved and to wear minimal clothing after they mocked the goddess bathing in a forest pool. In response, Bonda women developed a remarkable, dignified form of body adornment.
Bonda women shave their heads clean, crowning their shaven pates with colorful bands of palmyra palm fibers and woven grass. Their upper bodies are draped not in tailored blouses, but in dense, heavy cascades of hundreds of multi-colored glass beaded necklaces that fall from neck to navel, covering the chest like an ornate beaded cuirass.
Around their necks, women wear heavy, rigid collars forged from solid brass and silver. Around their waists, they wear the 'Renga'—a narrow, thick rectangular cloth barely ten inches wide and two feet long, hand-woven on primitive back-strap looms from wild forest bark fibers (Kerang) and dyed in bold horizontal stripes of indigo, yellow, and red. Bonda men, by contrast, wear modest loincloths and carry iron-tipped hunting arrows, walking sticks, and hand-forged axes (Tangi).
The Gadaba Presence: Kerang Sarees & Giant Silver Neck Rings
Onukudelli is not exclusively a Bonda market; it is equally the commercial domain of the neighboring Gadaba tribe, another ancient Austroasiatic community celebrated for their exquisite textile and metallurgical traditions.
Gadaba women present an equally striking appearance, wearing distinctive hand-woven cotton sarees known as 'Kerang' or 'Kisalu'. Woven on traditional wooden pit looms with thick cotton yarn and wild plant fibers, these sarees feature striking wide horizontal stripes of deep crimson, indigo, and saffron. Gadaba women are instantly recognizable by their massive, thick circular neck rings (Khagla) forged from solid silver, weighing up to two kilograms.
These giant silver collars, which are hammered into place around the girl's neck during adolescence and rarely removed until death, symbolize married status, ancestral lineage, and spiritual protection. The market allows visitors to observe the peaceful commercial interaction between Bonda, Gadaba, Paroja, and Mali tribal artisans.
Alcohol Intoxication & Bow-and-Arrow Traditions
Bonda men frequently carry traditional hand-forged bows and poisoned-tip hunting arrows, and consume potent fermented palm wine (Salap) during the market. Maintain polite distance, avoid confrontational arguments, and leave the market grounds by 12:30 PM as midday alcohol consumption increases.
The Thursday Haat Experience: Forest Produce, Salap & Rural Barter
The Onukudelli haat begins around 8:00 AM on Thursday mornings. Streams of Bonda and Gadaba villagers walk barefoot down steep mountain trails carrying heavy head-loads of forest produce gathered from the high slopes: wild roots, edible tubers, raw turmeric, ginger, wild honey, broom grass, forest mushrooms, and hand-woven bamboo baskets.
While Indian currency is utilized for modern transactions, traditional barter continues to flourish across the market. Tribal women trade wild forest herbs for salt, dried fish, glass beads, aluminum cookware, and iron farming tools brought by merchant traders from the plains of Jeypore.
A focal point of social activity is the beverage section, where villagers gather under the shade of banyan trees to drink freshly tapped 'Salap'—a sweet, naturally fermented effervescent palm wine drawn from the sago palm (Caryota urens)—and 'Mahua' liquor distilled from the sweet blossoms of the Mahua tree. The wine is consumed from hollow gourds and folded sal-leaf cups amidst animated laughter and community storytelling.
Visitor Planning, Tour Logistics & Ethical Guidelines
Onukudelli is situated in Khairput block of Koraput district, approximately 75 km southwest of Jeypore and 95 km from Koraput. Because the market functions exclusively on Thursday mornings, travelers must plan their itinerary to be in Jeypore on Wednesday evening.
Depart Jeypore by private taxi at 6:30 AM on Thursday to arrive at Onukudelli by 8:15 AM as the market begins to swell. Hiring an authorized local tribal guide from Jeypore who speaks both Odia and local tribal dialects is essential for translating respectfully and navigating cultural boundaries.
Spend approximately two to two-and-a-half hours strolling through the market, concluding your visit by 11:30 AM before the market winds down. From Onukudelli, continue 20 km southwest to the thunderous precipices of Duduma Waterfall along the Machkund River, completing an extraordinary day of highland exploration.
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