An imposing 17th-century Drukpa monastery crowning a solitary conical rock hill, resembling a medieval European castle and guarding the route to Chang La.
Founded: 1664 CEFounder: Lama Stagtsang RaspaLineage: Drukpa KagyuRelic: Silver & Gold Kangyur ScripturesLocation: 40 km East of Leh
Chemrey Gompa, consecrated in 1664 by Lama Stagtsang Raspa, rising dramatically on an isolated rock knoll on the road to Chang La and Pangong.Quick Orientation
Elevation
3,810 m (12,500 ft)
Year Founded
1664 CE
Spiritual Founder
Lama Stagtsang Raspa
Key Sacred Relic
29-volume Kangyur inscribed in silver with pure gold calligraphy
Distance from Leh
40 km east (approx. 1 hour via Karu)
Chapter I — 17th Century Memorial
The Castle-Like Citadel of the Drukpa Order
Chemrey Monastery (*Thekchok Gompa*) is one of the most visually dramatic and architecturally unified monasteries in Ladakh. Situated approximately 40 kilometres east of Leh in the picturesque Chemrey valley, the monastery crowns a steep, isolated conical limestone hill that thrusts upward from the lush barley fields of the valley floor, bearing an uncanny resemblance to a fortified medieval European hilltop castle.
Founded in March 1664 CE by the revered yogi Lama Stagtsang Raspa, Chemrey was established under the sponsorship of Queen Skalzang Dolma as a sacred funeral memorial and merit-making sanctuary for her deceased husband, King Sengge Namgyal, who had died during a military expedition in Hanle. Affiliated with the Drukpa Kagyu lineage, Chemrey has maintained an active, vibrant monastic community of over 100 monks continuously for more than 360 years.
Chapter II — Sacred Relics & Scriptures
The 29-Volume Silver and Gold Kangyur
Chemrey possesses one of the most astonishing literary and artistic treasures in the Tibetan Buddhist world: a complete, priceless **29-volume set of the Kangyur** (the canonical words of the Buddha), hand-written entirely with illuminated pure gold calligraphy on sheets made of real beaten silver.
Within the main assembly hall (*Dukhang*), visitors can admire a high statue of Lama Stagtsang Raspa adorned with turquoise, antique wall paintings depicting the Drukpa Kagyu lineage masters, and an exquisite shrine room housing a colossal one-storey statue of Guru Padmasambhava. The upper roof terraces provide breathtaking views over the patchwork of emerald barley terraces, willow coppices, and the winding road ascending towards Chang La pass.
Chapter III — Chemrey Angchok Festival
The Winter Masked Dance Celebration
Chemrey comes alive in early winter with the celebrated **Chemrey Angchok festival**, held on the 28th and 29th days of the 9th Tibetan lunar month (usually late October or November). During the two-day festival, resident monks perform elaborate sacred masked cham dances to commemorate the triumph of spiritual wisdom over darkness.
Because the festival occurs after the main summer tourist season has ended, Chemrey Angchok provides an extraordinarily authentic, intimate, and deeply devotional window into living Ladakhi Buddhist culture, attended almost exclusively by local villagers dressed in their finest traditional woollen gonchas and silver jewelry.
Logistics & Practical Advice
How to Reach, Permits & Travel Rules
Critical Information for Visitors
How to Reach: Located 40 km east of Leh along the road to Pangong Tso via Chang La. Drive along the Leh-Manali road to Karu (35 km), turn northeast, and drive 5 km to Chemrey village.
Visiting Hours: Open daily from 7:00 AM to 1:00 PM and 2:00 PM to 6:00 PM. Modest entry ticket (₹30).
En Route to Pangong: Chemrey is a perfect cultural stop on the morning drive from Leh to Pangong Lake, located just before the steep ascent to Chang La pass.
Sister Monastery: Often combined with a visit to the nearby Takthok cave monastery, located just 6 km further up the same valley.
Chemrey Monastery was founded in 1664 CE by Lama Stagtsang Raspa under the patronage of Queen Skalzang Dolma as a spiritual memorial for King Sengge Namgyal.
What makes Chemrey Monastery's architecture unique?
Chemrey crowns a solitary, symmetrical conical hill, with whitewashed monastic buildings cascading down in tiered levels, resembling a medieval European fairytale castle.
What is the most famous treasure inside Chemrey Monastery?
The monastery's most famous treasure is a 29-volume collection of the Kangyur Buddhist scriptures written in pure gold calligraphy on sheets of real beaten silver.
Can I visit Chemrey on the way to Pangong Lake?
Yes. Chemrey lies directly along the highway from Leh towards Chang La and Pangong Lake, making it an ideal 45-minute cultural stop en route.
Do I need a permit to visit Chemrey Monastery?
No permit is needed to visit Chemrey village itself, but if you are continuing onward past Chemrey to Chang La and Pangong Lake, an Inner Line Permit is mandatory.
