The Painted Rots
Each locality (*Dong*) builds colossal 30-to-40-foot structures from bamboo, colored paper, and timber adorned with painted motifs addressing social and environmental themes.
The Ancient Pnar Ritual at Sacred Aitnar Pool in Jowai, 40-Foot Towering Painted Rots, Khnong Blai Tree Log Scramble, and Dad-Maw Mud Football
Celebrated with thunderous communal passion in the mist-laden pine hills of Jowai, the district headquarters of West Jaintia Hills in Meghalaya, Behdienkhlam is the most important religious and cultural festival of the indigenous **Pnar (Jaintia)** community. Rooted in the indigenous **Niamtre** faith, this 4-day post-sowing monsoon festival (celebrated annually in mid-July) represents the collective invocation to the Almighty Creator (*U Tre Kirot*) to chase away the demon of plague (*Khlam*) and pestilence while ensuring divine protection and bountiful harvest.
Etymologically, Beh signifies to chase, Dien means sticks or wooden logs, and Khlam refers to plague, capturing the ancient ritual of beating roofs with sticks to drive away malevolent spirits.
The visual climax unfolds at the sacred muddy pool of Aitnar:
Each locality (*Dong*) builds colossal 30-to-40-foot structures from bamboo, colored paper, and timber adorned with painted motifs addressing social and environmental themes.
Young men dance into the muddy Aitnar pool carrying the heavy Rots on their shoulders, swaying and splashing water before breaking the towers in devotional joy.
The sacred main deodar tree trunk is placed in the pool; hundreds scramble into the water to touch it, securing good health and bumper crop yield.
Following the pool rituals, the crowd gathers at Madan Pohkseh for Datlawakor:
Before the grand pool gathering, households perform sacred domestic purifications:
The festival involves profound communion with departed clan ancestors:
Elders gather in the sacred ancestral clan homes (Iung Blai) to offer cooked pork, dried fish, and fermented rice beverage (*Kiad*) to the departed matriarchs and patriarchs, expressing gratitude for past protection and seeking blessings for future harvests.
Behdienkhlam feasting features rich, wholesome Khasi-Jaintia mountain cuisine:
| Pnar Specialty | Preparation Method | Key Ingredients | Cultural Context |
|---|---|---|---|
| Traditional Jaintia Jadoh | Short-Grain Red Rice Cooked in Aromatic Pork Broth | Indigenous hill red rice slow-cooked in rich pork stock, organic turmeric, ginger paste, crushed black pepper, and fried pork chunks until fragrant and fluffy | The signature festive centerpiece served at every community banquet and family feast. |
| Pnar Herbal Dohkhlieh | Boiled Pork Salad with Fresh Onions & Green Chilies | Tender boiled pork meat and brain chopped fine, tossed with fresh spring onions, fiery local bird's eye chilies, grated ginger, and mustard oil | A refreshing, pungent side dish served alongside steaming bowls of Jadoh. |
| Fermented Kiad Rice Wine | Traditional Distilled Rice Wine in Earthen Vats | Steamed sticky rice fermented with indigenous herbal yeast cakes (Thiat), brewed into a smooth, soothing golden-hued festive beverage | Offered in ancestral libations and shared among guests to foster warmth in chilly monsoon weather. |
The festival begins by establishing a protective spiritual barrier around Jowai:
The festival is a magnificent exhibition of indigenous handloom weaving:
Pnar women and elders dress in rich handwoven organic Eri silk drapes (Ryndia) dyed with natural plant extracts, paired with massive heirloom 24-karat gold-and-red-coral beaded necklaces (Kpieng Paila) passed down through matriarchal lineages.
Celebrated annually during the monsoon month of July in the hill town of Jowai, West Jaintia Hills, Meghalaya, Behdienkhlam is the most important cultural and religious festival of the indigenous Pnar (Jaintia) people belonging to the ancient Niamtre faith. Translating literally from the Pnar language as 'chasing away the demon of plague and pestilence with sticks', the four-day festival is an ancient collective prayer invoking divine protection against cholera, crop disease, and social misfortune.
Throughout the festival, young men from different village localities (Dongs) spend weeks handcrafting monumental, multi-tiered artistic towers known as Rots (Raths). Reaching heights of thirty to forty feet, these colorful bamboo and paper towers are adorned with geometric patterns, political satires, and social messages. On the final afternoon, thousands of men carry these massive Rots upon their shoulders in a triumphant procession toward the sacred muddy pool known as Aitnar.
Amidst the booming of traditional drums and brass horns, the Rots are paraded into the waist-deep waters of Aitnar, where revellers dance with ecstatic abandon, splashing mud in a joyful communal celebration of equality. The festival reaches its climax with the ritual game of Dad-Maw—an ancient form of mud-football where teams compete to push a heavy wooden ball across the pool. The winning locality is believed to be blessed with an extraordinary agricultural harvest in the coming autumn.
For cultural photographers, travelers, and documentary writers:
The theological foundation of Behdienkhlam is rooted in the Niamtre faith:
Festive celebrations center around Jowai’s historic marketplace:
The ancient Iawmusiang Market buzzes with hill trade, where farmers sell organic black ginger, Lakadong high-curcumin turmeric, dried smoked fish, hand-carved bamboo baskets, and locally woven cane mats (*Tlieng*).
The ceremonial order is presided over by customary institutions:
Visitors explore rich tribal handicraft markets in Jowai:
Master weavers fashion conical rain shields (Knup) made of tightly woven bamboo and palm leaves that protect farmers during torrential monsoon rains, alongside ingenious woven bamboo fish traps (Ksaw) used in highland river streams.
Following the joyful immersion of the towering Rots:
The hills reverberate with ancient Jaintia wind instruments:
Master musicians play the long bamboo flute (Sharati) and dual-reed pipe (Tangmuri), producing poignant, high-pitched melodies that guide the rhythmic footwork of dancers carrying the multi-tiered Rots into the arena.
The festival honors the spiritual stewardship of the matrilineal lineage:
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The most important 4-day harvest and plague-chasing festival of the indigenous Pnar people held in July at Jowai, Meghalaya.
Towering 30-to-40-foot painted bamboo and wooden structures paraded and immersed in the sacred Aitnar mud pool.
A traditional ritual football match played with a wooden ball between northern and southern clans to predict agricultural harvest fortunes.
Jadoh (turmeric pork rice), country chicken curry (Doh Syiar), Dohkhlieh salad, and Kiad fermented rice wine.