|| कबीरधाम भोरमदेवप्रस्थम् ||

KABIRDHAM

The Bhoramdeo Temple, Chilpi Ghati Sal Forests, and Wrought Iron Loha Shilpa

Bhoramdeo Temple
11th-century Nagvanshi stone carvings
353 m
Elevation
Chilpi Ghati
Sal forest mountain pass
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Destination Name

Kabirdham (Kawardha Basin)

State / Territory

Chhattisgarh, India

Geo Coordinates

22.0100° N, 81.2500° E

Primary Signify

Bhoramdeo Nagvanshi Temple & Chilpi Ghati Sal Forest Pass

The Soul of Kabirdham

Kabirdham (Kawardha) is a historic and forested district in western Chhattisgarh, where beautiful stone temples rise out of bamboo fields and deep mountain passes are lined with dense sal forests. Nestled against the slopes of the Maikal hill range, the archaeological core of the district is the Bhoramdeo Temple, a highly revered 11th-century stone temple built by the Nagvanshi rulers. The geographical highlights are the scenic Chilpi Ghati mountain pass and the calm waters of the Saroda Reservoir.

Exploring Kabirdham requires slow travel and a deep respect for regional heritage. It means studying the deity and erotic carvings on Bhoramdeo's black stone walls, taking evening walks through the wedding-mandap-shaped Madwa Mahal temple, and watching blacksmiths beat red-hot iron into wrought iron Loha Shilpa. This is a land where slow travel reveals the quiet details of rural plains and hills, where sweet shops fry sweet Babra pastries in cow ghee, and every forest ridge at Chilpi Ghati has stories of kings, sages, and tribal herds who have lived in these Maikal valleys for centuries.

The Waves of Time

11th Century AD
Bhoramdeo Temple Constructed
King Ramachandra of the Phani Nagvanshi dynasty constructed the stone temple to Shiva, utilizing highly detailed relief panels.
1349 AD
Madwa Mahal Completed
Nagvanshi rulers constructed the Madwa Mahal, shaped like a wedding tent (mandap), to celebrate the marriage of King Ramachandra with Princess Ambika Devi.
1998 AD
Separate District Reconstitution
The district was carved out from Rajnandgaon and Bilaspur under the name Kawardha, which was later renamed Kabirdham in honor of Saint Kabir.
2012 AD
Chilpi Ghati Eco-tourism Projects
Administration launched ecological conservation and trekking trails inside the sal-covered pass of Chilpi Ghati.

The Heritage of Loha Shilpa & Bell Metal

The district's tribal artisans are famous for their traditional wrought iron Loha Shilpa and bell metal castings.

🔨 Iron forge

Wrought Iron Loha Shilpa

Craftsmen heat recycled scrap iron in backyard charcoal furnaces, beating it with heavy steel hammers to shape elegant lamps, folk deities, and forest animals. The figures are cooled in water and rubbed with mustard oil to prevent rust.

Wrought iron Loha Shilpa is highly valued for its clean minimalist lines.

  • Formed entirely from recycled metal sheets and building iron rods
  • Made without using modern welding tools or design templates
  • Represents local folk deities, forest deer, birds, and tall oil lamps
🏆 Brass cast

Bell Metal Dhokra craft

Non-ferrous metal castings prepared using the lost-wax technique. Artisans shape clay cores, cover them with fine wax threads, and encase them in outer molds to receive molten brass.

Figures represent traditional village deities, animal shapes, and lamps.

  • Every single Dhokra bell metal casting requires a separate mold
  • Uses local beeswax, organic resins, and fine river clay
  • Crafted by local metal smiths in rural blocks
🏺 Clay Pot

Maikal Basin Clay Pottery

Potters harvest silty clay from Maikal hill streams, throwing it on manual wheels to shape curd jars and water pots. The pottery is baked in open pit kilns.

The clay pots keep drinking water naturally cool during warm plains summers.

  • Fine silty clay ensures smooth textures and thermal insulation
  • Baked in wood-fired village kilns without chemical glazes
  • Entirely handmade inside family workshops in Kawardha

The Nagvanshi Temple & Forest Passes

Explore the primary destinations in Kabirdham District. Each site presents a different facet of the region—from the Bhoramdeo Temple to the Chilpi Ghati sal pass.

Bhoramdeo Temple

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Bhoramdeo Temple

An 11th-century stone temple dedicated to Shiva, famous for its detailed deity and erotic carvings.

⏱ 6 AM - 8 PM | Bhoramdeo Hills 18 km

Madwa Mahal wedding Temple

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Madwa Mahal

A historic stone Shiva temple shaped like a marriage mandap, built by Nagvanshi rulers to celebrate a royal wedding.

⏱ 6 AM - 6:30 PM | Bhoramdeo Outskirts 1 km

Chilpi Ghati sal forest pass

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Chilpi Ghati

A beautiful mountain pass in the Maikal hill range, lined with dense Sal forests.

⏱ Open 24 Hours | Kawardha-Mandla Hwy 45 km

Saroda Reservoir Lake

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Saroda Reservoir

A scenic lake situated amidst Maikal hills offering boating and picnic spots.

⏱ Open 24 Hours | Kawardha Outskirts 12 km

Cherki Mahal brick shrine

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Cherki Mahal

An ancient brick temple dedicated to Shiva, once used by local shepherds (Cherkis) for worship.

⏱ 6 AM - 6 PM | Bhoramdeo Outskirts 2 km

📌 The Nagvanshi Architecture of Bhoramdeo

The **Bhoramdeo Temple** is built of dark sandstone, decorated with detailed carvings of Shiva, Vishnu, Ganesha, and court dancers. The temple's exterior walls contain three bands of reliefs depicting traditional medieval social and royal life.

The Sweet Babra & Savory Chila

Kabirdham's food is famous for its sweet jaggery-based pastries and steamed rice crepes.

🍪

Traditional Sweet Babra

A deep-fried sweet pastry prepared from wheat flour and jaggery paste, flavored with fennel seeds, fried in cow ghee.

Tasted at: Sweet shops in Kawardha town bazaar
🥞

Rice Flour Chila

Thin, crispy crepes prepared from ground rice batter, fermented, and served with spicy tomato chutney.

Purchased at: Morning street markets
🍢

Savory Steamed Fara

Steamed logs made of left-over rice kneaded with flour, seasoned with sesame seeds and curry leaves.

Sipped at: Local village kiosks

Plan Your Journey

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How to Reach Kawardha

✈️ By Air
Swami Vivekananda Airport (RPR) in Raipur is 125 km southeast, connected via a well-maintained highway (a 2.5-hour taxi drive).
🚂 By Rail
The nearest major station is Raipur Railway Station (R), 120 km southeast, or Bilaspur Junction (BSP) 115 km east.
🚌 By Road
Connected via NH 30. Regular direct buses run from Raipur, Jabalpur, and Bilaspur to Kawardha town.

🌡️ Best Time to Visit

✓ Best
November to February (Winter Season)

Cool pleasant plains weather (12°C to 28°C). Ideal for walking Bhoramdeo ruins, visiting Chilpi Ghati, and shopping crafts.

◎ Monsoons
July to September (Lush Hills)

Moderate monsoon rains. The hills are green, Chilpi Ghati looks beautiful, though forest roads can be muddy.

⚠ Summer
April to June (Warm & Dry)

Hot, dry climate with temperatures reaching up to 42°C. Outdoor travel is recommended only in morning hours.

The Unhurried 3-Day Route

Kabirdham's ancient temples and forest passes demand slow travel. Walking along the stone paths, visiting the reservoir, and watching crafts require time.

Day 1: Bhoramdeo & Madwa Mahal

09:30 AM: Visit Bhoramdeo Temple; explore the stone carvings and relief panels.

01:30 PM: Enjoy traditional lunch featuring sweet Babra at a town restaurant.

03:30 PM: Visit Madwa Mahal and Cherki Mahal brick ruins.

Day 2: Chilpi Ghati sal forest pass

08:30 AM: Drive up to Chilpi Ghati; take walks in the dense sal forests.

01:30 PM: Enjoy simple picnic lunch near the hill pass.

03:30 PM: Walk through local Baiga tribal villages; study forest life.

Day 3: Saroda Reservoir & Wrought Iron

09:00 AM: Visit Saroda Reservoir; enjoy boating and lake views.

01:30 PM: Enjoy traditional lunch at a local dhaba near NH 30.

03:30 PM: Visit wrought iron workshops; buy Loha Shilpa lamps and figures.

Frequently Asked

What is unique about the Bhoramdeo Temple? +
Bhoramdeo Temple is an 11th-century stone temple built by the Nagvanshi dynasty, famous for its detailed stone carvings of deities and erotic figures, resembling Khajuraho.
What is Chilpi Ghati? +
Chilpi Ghati is a beautiful mountain pass in the Maikal hill range, lined with dense Sal forests, connecting Kawardha with Madhya Pradesh.
What is the Madwa Mahal? +
Madwa Mahal is a historic stone Shiva temple shaped like a marriage mandap, built by Nagvanshi rulers to commemorate a royal wedding.
Is public transport available from Raipur to Kawardha? +
Yes, state transport and private buses run regularly from Raipur to Kawardha town, taking approximately 2.5 hours.

Fast Trivia & Curiosities

🐍

Nagvanshi Crest

The Phani Nagvanshi dynasty claimed descent from the mythological snake king, utilizing cobra hood carvings as their royal crest.

🌴

Baiga Tribe

The Chilpi Ghati forests are home to the Baiga tribe, celebrated as traditional healers who have deep knowledge of forest medicinal herbs.

🧱

Clay marriage

The term "Madwa" means marriage canopy in the local dialect, referring to the temple's mandap structural layout.

Explore More Slow Routes in Chhattisgarh

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